Trichology

Braids and twists: how long to keep them and how to take them down safely

Cornrows close to the hairline

Braids, twists, knotless, locs-inspired styles: they save time and protect the lengths from daily handling. But a style that is kept too long, or ripped out in a hurry, does more damage than months of daily styling.

How long is too long

  • Box braids and knotless braids: six to eight weeks. Beyond that, the new growth at the root becomes a weak point where the hair snaps under the weight of the extension.
  • Twists with extensions: four to six weeks.
  • Twists and braids on your own hair, no extensions: two to three weeks, then re-do.
  • Cornrows under a wig: two to four weeks, redone loosely.

If your scalp itches for days, if you see flakes building up, or if the roots look matted, the style is due, whatever the calendar says.

Keep the scalp alive in the meantime

A protective style is not an excuse to forget your scalp for two months. Cleanse it every one to two weeks with a diluted shampoo applied with a nozzle bottle, rinse well, and dry completely to avoid mildew smell. Moisturise the skin, not the braids, with a light oil or a scalp lotion. Sleep with a satin bonnet or scarf.

Take-down day: the rules

  1. Give yourself time. Ripping through a full head in an hour is how you lose the hair you spent two months protecting.
  2. Cut the extension below your own hair, then unravel from the bottom up.
  3. Detangle each section before you wash. Apply a slippery conditioner or oil, separate the shed hairs and the build-up at the root with your fingers, then a wide-tooth comb. Never wash matted hair: water tightens the knots.
  4. Expect hair in your hands. You shed up to a hundred hairs a day and they have been trapped for weeks. A handful on take-down day is normal. Handfuls every day afterwards is not.
  5. Clarify, deep condition, and wait at least a week, ideally two, before the next install.

The sign something is wrong

Bumps and soreness at the roots in the first days, thinning edges after each style, or bald patches where the braids were heaviest: that is traction, and it will not get better with another install.

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